When I visited Lake Louise in 2009, it was a remarkable glacier-tinted shade of greenish-blue. This time, it was white. Or at least, the snow on top of it was. A stop at Lake Louise is an essential part of the wintertime experience in Banff National Park. The lake freezes solid in winter, allowing you to safely take a walk out into the middle of it. But you don’t have to walk far. The edge of the lake is right next to the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, a huge resort hotel with impossibly great views, and high prices to match. […]